Ispezione dell'asse del faro

L'asse dei fari è una delle procedure di controllo più importanti nell'ispezione periodica delle autorità.
Gli abbaglianti dovrebbero essere abbattuti a una distanza di 30 metri è lo standard, quindi ricordo, ma il recente ispettore mi ha ordinato di fare l'asse in posizione anabbagliante, come mai?
Anche la mia TOYOTA Caldina AZT-241W, di 16 anni, ha il marchio del centro della luce sulle superfici delle lenti esterne in posizione abbagliante, non anabbagliante. Il fatto mi porta alla conclusione che l'ispezione dell'asse dovrebbe essere eseguita nella posizione di abbaglianti nello scenario. Suppongo che i sistemi di illuminazione siano fondamentalmente diversi dalla vecchia teoria, mentre la generazione in cui qualsiasi sistema di fari modificati non era stato vietato, ad eccezione dei normali apparecchi di illuminazione, 2 tondi o 4 tondi.
Ad ogni modo, ignoro sempre il loro suggerimento e pretendo la posizione di abbaglianti, ma in realtà abbaglianti, oltre a dare una leggera rotazione del motore fino a quando il regolatore di tensione è attivato, compensando una certa mancanza di valore della luce.
Poiché questo tipo di ispezione da parte delle Autorità è un'occasione irrinunciabile per farmi lavorare seriamente, per un geriatrico, per metà afflitto e per metà divertito.
Di conseguenza, l'ho fatto più precisamente oggi sul mio Beetle 1302 raffreddato ad aria e leggermente aggiustato, alcuni primitivi calcoli matematici che utilizzano la funzione trigonometrica lo rendono possibile nel mio garage chiuso.
Questo è il motivo per cui mi preparo per un controllo periodico di 2 anni da solo, per me stesso e per me stesso.
Il mio sforzo e le mie capacità sono testati e controllati con qualche ragione ogni 2 anni, per evitare l'invecchiamento vorrei continuare questa situazione fino a quando andrò in Paradiso.

Headlight axis inspection

Headlight axis is one of the most important checking procedure in the periodical inspection by the Authorities.
The high beam should be downed at 30 m distance is the standard, so I remember, but recent inspector ordered me to make the axis at the low beam position, how come?
Even my 16 years old TOYOTA Caldina AZT-241W has the light center round mark on the external lens surfaces at high beam position, not low beam. The fact leads me to the conclusion that the axis inspection should be done at the high beam position in the scenery. I suppose that the lighting systems are fundamental different from old theory while the generation when any modified headlight systems had not been forbidden except the regular lighting equipment, 2 round ones or 4 round ones.
Anyway, always I ignore their suggestion and pretend low beam position, but actually high beam, in addition giving slight motor rotation up till the voltage regulator activated, compensating some lack of light value.
As this kind of inspection by the Authorities is an indispensable opportunity to make me work seriously, for a geriatric, half distress and half enjoy.
Consequently, I did it more precisely today on my Air-cooled Beetle 1302 and slightly adjusted, some primitive mathematical calculation utilizing Trigonometric function make it possible in my closed garage.
This is why I prepare for 2 year periodical inspection by myself, for myself and to myself.
My endeavor and capability are tested and inspected with some reason every 2 years, for avoiding aging I would like to continue this situation till I go to Heaven.

DIY ST for Toe-in value adjustment

I make it a rule to fabricate Special Tools for my vehicles as shown.
The toe-in value was investigated for the preparation of the periodical inspection every 2 years by the Authority. The appointment had been done already the other day with Kobe Land Transport Bureau through Internet system.
Of course 3 bottles of 20 l water are set on the driver's sheet for compensation intending precise adjustment, the inspection of toe-in value is performed with driver's weight on the sheet. And moving VW forward and backward on every adjustment procedure to make the stress and tension on the tire surfaces.
As I have some bitter experience to fail the inspection last time because of too much toe value over 5 mm toe-in, that was caused by the fracture of lower arm hinge bushes on both sides. Though I passed the inspection by my handling flexibility, just adjusting the connecting rod length at that time, I didn't know how such kind of discrepancy had been carried out. But, it did not take time to come to the conclusion remembering strange steering reaction while turning phase.
Such kind of experience obliged me to check the actual toe-in value today.
3 mm/1 m toe-in value was obtained utilizing DIY ST and it was adjusted into Zero degree by my own muscle work taking time 30 minutes as a matter of fact.
More gentle and honest steering reaction could be obtained after that.
This kind of fundamental adjustment should be performed at least once per half a year especially on the unstable and movable axle construction vehicle like VW air cooled Beetle 1302.

Organization of belongings

All of the collection on my Camera hobby were thrown away the day before yesterday, the money I received was 1,000,000 yen in all. This kind of decision must be done with all my heart.
However worthy they might be, they had been kept at my hand without demonstrating their potential.
Digitization these days might be one of the reason.
Anyway I feel free now after loosing everything.
Radio control model airplane goods had been done last year as the same as camera this time.
What would be the next? Probably, several low frequency Tube amplifiers would have the same consequence in few days.
Organization of belongings to me is now processing.

Minolta SR 58/1.4

Before mirror-less cameras are not prevailing like today, Minolta SR lenses were thrown away in the market being sold as nothing, even MINT conditioned one had a price tag 1000 yen. As we knew, the flange back value of Minolta SR is the shortest, 43.5mm, on the other hand that of Canon EOS is 44.0mm, resulting no way to focus on infinity point if SR lens is mounted on EOS, it's an inevitable physical disadvantage.
This is why Minolta SR lenses were sold away at the cheapest price in the past. Now, mirror-less cameras have capability to accept SR lenses by way of SR lens adapters.
To tell the truth, lack of flange back value 0.5mm on EOS camera, is enough compensated by adjusting the helicoid adjusting construction.
Once I had experiences to modify SR lenses for adapting on Canon EOS body applying the same principle on them.
Minolta SR standard lenses modified for Canon EOS body.
As all the camera manufactures were advocated in the designing especially on standard 50mm lenses. So the designing had been established 40 years ago and the constructive designs are not changed even now.
All the Minolta SR lenses I'm keeping with Canon EOS bayonet mount has the capability to focus up at infinity position.

Hi-spec PC came to me

Hi-spec PC was obtained and it works very well, it is a second handed one from my son, he has moved to Mac PC the other day.
Windows 7 program is in SSD and start and access are so quick as to twice as I had used.
I made up my mind to restore and clean up mine this time after back up process.
5 years interval made me forget the BIOS setting up procedure, it is often the case. Without jumping on CMOS clear terminal, CDR drive and HDD at all in the BIOS picture.
HDD is replaced because of some strange noise by the arm moving function, it must be the symptom of mechanical fracture inside. This is why  1.0 TB HDD is replaced new.
I don't prefer to use Note PC because of basic delicate mechanical construction, especially CPU fan, the fan drive shaft lubrication. The depletion of shaft mounting parts means the life of Note PC life. On the other hand, ATX tower PC has enough flexibility to maintain and to repair any time the user wants.
Before that the scale of CPU fans differ fundamentally leading to the potential for CPU   cooling function, however the size and bulk might differ each other, the reliability is the first when PC is used for job purpose.

Important tire pressure

As I mentioned in the last blog, my son ran about all over Hokkaido few days ago spending a week by means of his car, Honda Step Wagon wearing all wheel drive construction.  According to his opinion, in spite of tire pressure checking as to be 240 kpa for front at Osaka before departure, he could not drive it with certain stability. Luck of tire pressure there was the reason, then he adjusted them following the caution decal adequately. On the other hand, he felt some inconvenience on tire pressure after coming back to Osaka, too high pressure here.
The comparison of atmospheric condition, about 10 degree in Osaka, minus 20 degree in Hokkaido shows a fundamental physical difference, 30 degree is the factor for the vehicle's safety not to be lost.
As for my car, I make it a rule to check and to adjust tire pressure as a periodical maintenance every month. On my perception, 10 degree Celsius temperature causes 13 kpa fluctuation.
Deeper consideration leads us to the conclusion that an only surface to contact with the ground is nothing but a tire touching plane just the same as post card, however high performance car it may be.